Recover an IKEA Jall with me!

We have used the IKEA Jall laundry baskets for years, I think this particular pair are over 10 years old! We have (me made) canvas bags with elasticated tops which we put inside to allow us to easily empty the baskets and carry the contents downstairs to the washing machine. 

The bag inserts, and the original plastic baskets are both falling apart, and a replacement solution has been in the works for a while. When we were given the January theme for UK Fabrics, I just knew what it had to be, and the colour is spot on for our bedroom, where the laundry baskets live! 

I decided to completely overhaul our system, as both the plastic basket and the canvas bags both needed replacing. I was also mindful of a solution suitable for small hands as our children do probably 75% of the laundry in this house! 

Finished measurements: 14.5” x 15” x 19”

Materials required: 

1m 60" wide fabric per bag, I've used: William Morris Printed Water Repellent Outdoor Canvas Fabric (ukfabricsonline.com)

Snaps, like KAM or prym, or hook and loop tape (velcro)

Thread 

Scissors or rotary cutter

Pencil

Sewing Clips

Matching thread and bobbin

Point turner (or chopstick) (optional)

Seam roller (optional)

Iron (optional)

Cut three rectangles: 

30"×10" (x2) to attach to the metal frame

26"×WOF (full width of fabric or 60") for the body of the bag

Sew the handles:

Take both small rectangle and fold it RST (that means Right Sides Together, as in, pretty sides facing each other) to create a 10" x 15" rectangle. Sew along both long sides and the one open short side. Leave a 5" gap at one end to turn it right-side out later. 

 Sew, using a straight stitch, with a stitch length of approximately 2.5. I used a 3/8" seam allowance but if you prefer 5/8" that's fine, just remember that for later on. Remember to back tack (reverse) your stitches at the beginning and end to secure them and stop them unravelling.

Using the 5" gap, turn the rectangle right side out and push the corners out to give a nice crisp shape. If your fabric allows, press, tucking in the seam allowance where the gap is. 

Option 1 - hand sew the 5" gap closed (I'd use a ladder stitch)

Option 2 - machine top stitch the entire perimeter of the rectangle with a 1/8" seam allowance (this will close the turning hole too)

Option 3 – leave it open and we’ll close it later

Sew the bag: 

Usually, when we sew, we sew RST (like above). Because this bag isn't going to be lined, we're sewing French seams which means we first must sew it WST (wrong sides together). 

Fold the rectangle WST to create a 30"×26" rectangle. Use sewing clips or pins to secure the bottom 30" and the side 26". If you fabric is directional it's important that you make a note of, and pin THE BOTTOM, not the top. The top needs to be left open. The other 26" side is folded so doesn't need to be sewn. Double check that your fabric is WST, and Right Sides Out. Sew along the bottom, pivot at the corner, and sew up the side. Remember to back tack (reverse) your stitches at the beginning and end to secure them and stop them unravelling. Sew with a 3/8" seam allowance. (I didn't trim off my selvedge at the outset so I did a slightly bigger seam at the side)

Trim off half of your seam allowance. Be careful not to snip through your stitches.

Turn your bag inside out and push the corners and seams flat. If possible, iron all three sides (the folded side, the bottom, and the sewn side) and if not, finger press or use a seam roller to smooth.

Sew these two sides again, with a 3/8” seam allowance. If you’re relatively new to sewing, sewing in straight lines isn’t your speciality, or you’re a bit nervous, up that to 5/8” here. Again, back tack at the beginning and end, starting along the bottom, pivoting, and going up the side, stopping at the top (we need to leave the top open).

Box out your corners:

Using a quilting ruler, measure 6.5” in from the seam lines at each of the bottom corners.  Where you have the folded side, measure 6.5” from the fold, and 6.5” up from the seam along the bottom. Draw these boxes, and cut them out.

With your bag WST (with pretty sides out), pull your boxed corners and sew together. Start with the side with two seams (not the folded side). Pull the bottom and side apart, and align the two seams. Pin. The corners that you cut should also match. Pin. Pin in between and sew, with a 3/8” seam allowance, backtack. Trim in half. Repeat for the other corner, this one will be slightly harder as you don’t have a seam to align with the base, but you can do it! If you are struggling, use a pencil and mark a notch where the fold is. Pin, sew, backtack and trim.

Turn your bag RST (inside out) and resew the last two seams with a 3/8” (or 5/8”) seam allowance. Snip threads.

Hem your bag:

Fold the top of your bag to the inside by 5/8”, iron if possible. Fold the top of your bag again, another 5/8” to the inside. Stitch this down, as close to the folded edge as possible. Once you get back to where you started, sew over the first 1” again, then backtack to secure your stitches. Snip threads.

Attach handles:

Find the two centre points of the top of your bag, I used the seam as one, and folded it in half to find the opposite half. Find the centre point of the long (14.5”), partially open, side of your handles. Mark all four centres (both on the bag, and one each on each handle) with a clip, pencil, chalk.

Lay the notch on the handle OVER the right side of the notch on the bag. You want the handle to cover 1” of the bag (the hem), but with the majority of the handle above the bag. Pin, or use washaway seam tape to hold the handle in place while you stitch. Use a 1/8” seam allowance if you’re confident to do so, if not, ¼” or 3/8” will be fine. Backtack at the beginning and end. This seam will come under a lot of stress.

Decide on snap/Velcro placement:

I used six sets of snaps on one bag, three on each handle. I placed one 1” in from each edge, and a third central, here is a picture to show:

Take the handle rectangle and use the male snap placements to determine where to add the female pairings on the main body of the bag.

Be mindful on the side with the seam, you may wish to slightly off centre your middle snap so it doesn’t have to go through additional bulk.

Repeat for the other side of the bag.

You’re all done! I hope you enjoyed this upcycling project. I’d love to see what you get up to if you make one in the future, please tag me @annabelsews and @UKFabricsOnline who sponsored this super blog, and use the hashtag #annabelsewsjall or #annabelsewshacks